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Breathing In History


Today’s the day! Today we would go visit the Mausoleum of the First Qin Emperor and the terracotta warriors!

But first, a couple of stops:

After breakfast, we were taken to the Ancient City Wall. The 40 foot high wall was built in 1374 and offers great views of the city. The wall covers 8 1/2 miles in length with a moat surrounded it.

Recent restoration meant that it’s now possible to walk or cycle the entire structure. You can begin at any of the gates, but to rent a bicycle to ride on the wall, you’d have to start at the south gate, which is where we were.

It was very tranquil and you’d think that there’s danger of being hit by cyclists, but the structure is quite wide at 40-46 feet, so there’s plenty of room for everybody. Beep, beep.

ancient walled city of xi'an china
We boarded back on the bus and headed out to Lintong county, stopping first at a ceramics factory, specializing in reproduction of the terracotta warriors.

man working on terracotta warrior statue at repro factory in xi'an
Then finally, we made it to the mausoleum where the terracotta army, horses and chariots have been unearthed. Speaking of “earth”, once you walk into pit 1, the smell of clay, which the statues are made of, just permeates the air. It’s all around you and quite heavy. History is literally enveloping you with its scent.

Before heading into the main pits, we were brought into a large screening room and shown a film on the history of the tomb and how it was discovered by a farmer in 1974.

Mindblowing fact: the farmer who discovered what certainly is the most amazing archaeological find in modern history, works in the gift shop! The Chinese government did not pay him any money or riches for the discovery. After all, he and the other farmers didn’t own the land, but the government did bestowed upon him free education for all of his descendants, forever.

That farmer, Mr Yang, offers autographs (but no pictures) to tourists that purchases a guidebook. And just so you know he’s the real McCoy, there’s a banner mounted behind him with his picture in the newspaper when he made the discovery in ’74. And yes, I bought a guidebook and got it signed. I also bought a terracotta army figurine. Namely, the archer – because, you know

History lesson done, we made our way like herded cattle into the main pit…

Pit 1 is the largest of the three pits. It covers an area of 14,260 square meters! Up to now, 2000 terra cotta army warriors and horses and 20 wooden chariots have been unearthed within an area of 4,000 square meters. And they’re all “marching” east in military formation.

It’s estimated that more than 6000 warriors and horses, as well as, 50 chariots were buried in pit 1.

And thus, it was stupid-busy with visitors. You must wedge and elbow your way to the front of the railing. Patience and persistence is key. This was almost as worse as jockeying to see the Mona Lisa at the Louvre

Pit 2 contains hundreds of chariot drivers, horses, cavalrymen and infantrymen. Pit 3 is thought to be the terra cotta army headquarters. Emperor Qin’s mausoleum is about a mile away but we did not go there. It has yet to be excavated. In fact, the construction methods used to build that tomb renders it impossible for us to safely excavate it using our current technology!

Here are some pics:

terracotta army pit 1 at emperor qin shihuang’s mausoleum site museum xi'an
terracotta army and horses at emperor qin shihuang’s mausoleum site museum xi'an
terracotta army at emperor qin shihuang’s mausoleum site museum xi'an
terracotta army and horse at emperor qin shihuang’s mausoleum site museum xi'an
I could’ve stayed there all day if I had the chance. There was so much to take in. Unfortunately, my time is not my own when it comes to being a part of a tour group. But I’m comforted by the thought that I shall be back. On my own this time and with Sean – because he really needs to see this.

We headed back to Xi’an but stopped off to get an exterior view of the Big Wild Goose Pagoda at Qujiang Pool Park. The 7 story pagoda is regarded by many locals to be the symbol of the city and is the oldest building in Xi’an. It was built in 652 AD at the behest of a legendary monk who walked his way to India.

All around us, people were sitting around a huge man-made pool, waiting for the music conduit to start. Like the Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas, water, music and lights interweave to mesmerize admirers, of which there were many ooh’ing and ahh’ing. Don’t ask me why. Certainly not my thing.

After dinner, we were left to our own devices. And that’s why I so enjoyed my time in Xi’an better than Beijing. I get a few hours to myself to wander around, soaking in the atmosphere and making observations, like how much the Chinese sure love their KFC. and puffer jackets being sold in shops. Both are EVERYWHERE.

It’s much easier to find wifi in Xi’an than it is in Beijing, though still not as prevalent as North America. Five star hotels offer free wifi but in the lobby only, unless you’ve brought with you an ethernet cable, then you’re able to connect in your room. All luxury hotels also have universal convertor wall sockets, so no need to bring your own.

And if you ask me, Pom should open a factory in Xi’an because every vendor just outside of Lintong county was selling pomegranates by the side of the road. Apparently pomegranates and persimmons are local favourites here.

Beijing may have more attractions, but it doesn’t have the vibe. Everyone seems more relaxed and leisurely here. Like my friend Mat says, this city has soul. Culture, lifestyle and youth are all prevalent here.

Xi’an, you sure were fun. I shall have to return someday.

View more photos of my trip on my Flickr album.

Hours:
Daily: 830am-6pm (Mar 16-Nov 16) | 830am-530pm (Nov 16-Mar 15)

Address:
The northern foot of Lishan
Lintong District, Xi’an 710600, China
GPS coordinates: 34.3841197, 109.2763031

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